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Will Aluminium Clincher Wheels For Rim Brakes Go Extinct? | GCN Tech Clinic

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(various sound affects) – Welcome back to another episode of the GCN tech clinic, where I try and solve your bike related problems So if you've got one, make sure you leave it for me down there in the comments section below and I will do my very best to try and solve it in a forthcoming episode

And well, with no further ado, let's crack on with the first one this week and it comes in from Tom Holden who says, "Hi GCN, do you think higher end aluminum clinchers for rim brakes will be extinct?" Well go extinct Yeah I reckon it will at some point or another The reason being I guess exotic materials like carbon fiber, their price will continue to plummet and it means that they will ultimately replace aluminum wheels I guess, as will technologies in braking performance So better braking compounds from brake pads and ultimately I guess the disk brake will ultimately lead to the death of the rim brake After all, it happened on cars

I know they weren't with rim brakes but they had drum brakes and had their disk brakes And well, most cars come tend to come fitted with those these days, especially on the front So yeah, one day it will become extinct but right now, I don't see it at least for about another 10 or 15 years (swipe sound affect) Next up is Wayne Filer and Wayne says, "Hi Jon I put on cyclocross tires onto my hybrid bike to use as a commuter and needed the extra grip

There's less that a millimeter of clearance and sometimes they rub underneath the brake caliper Is there anything I can do to help give me a little bit more space and stop the rubbing?" Right, personally I would go for something with a smaller knob on the actual tread of the tire The reason being, like you say, it's less than a millimeter of clearance Now that is really, really close A few extra pumps in the tire and it's probably going to rub

Either that or if you get a little bit of something or other caught inside of the tread pattern that can start rubbing underneath the underside of that brake caliper and actually damage it And ultimately, it could be quite dangerous I guess, if something even bigger than that could catch in there and throw you over the bars or anything I don't want to be a scaremonger but I'm just thinking about the worst possible situation 'cause I don't want you really to use this I would go for a different tire, try and get something a litter lower profile which will try and clear that nice and easily Now something which we used to do on grass track bikes which aren't actually a thing but in Britain we have grass track racing

So it's like racing on a velodrome but it's outdoors on grass and you fit cyclocross tires or tubeless into a track bike Now track bikes, as many of you all know, don't have particularity big clearances Especially on the front of them, on the back you can generally play around a little bit because you can adjust your chain line and stuff so you can get it further away from the seat tube But the front wheel was always a problem So imagine that this here, this is your axle of your front wheel and this is the dropout of your fork just going over it and of course, the axle is going to sit really close into that dropout but what we used to do, was just in between them put a ball bearing in there and it would just push it away slightly from the crown of the fork just to give you a little bit of extra clearance

Not the safest thing in the world to do I never had any problems with it and it was a bit of a pain in the backside to fit But that could possibly be an option but I wouldn't really advise it but it's just a little bit of a tale there, what I used to do in the past But really just try and get yourself a lower profile tire (swipe sound affect) Right now we've got Mr Eric five, four, five, two who says, "Hi Jon, what type of cable do I think is best, a normal stainless steel one or Teflon coated brake cable?" Right Eric, I would say personally a Teflon coated one

That way you're going to get nice, smooth braking There's nothing worse than a you know slightly stiff or a little bit jittery almost when you try and pull the cable 'cause it can get caught just very slightly on the inner coil of outer cables On the inside of the outer cable, you got this coil and if they're not lined with a liner, cables can get a little bit trapped and sticky in there So I'd go for Teflon cables personally And also all cables are not created equally, so a more expensive cable generally, as a rule of thumb, will be better performing than the cheaper cable or obviously that's not always the case but normally there's a little bit more research and development gone into 'em hence the extra added cost

Personally, the cables I've found for complicated braking routes are something like Jagwires linkage system or Aligator Ilink or Knock On that was the first brand, I think we did that So it was a series of small little parts of an outer cable which you join together and they were highly flexible Other than that the Shimano Dura Ace brake cables I found to be really, really good too So yeah, personally, go for those Teflon coated ones (swipe sound affect) Next up is Muhummad Patel who has got another cable question

This one is, " Is there a way to stretch new brake and shift cables before fitting them? I notice that they stretch a bit within the first two to three weeks of replacing the old ones and I have to constantly make minor adjustments Thanks and regards from South Africa" Right then Muhummad, there's no real easy way to try and stretch those cables like we say Generally, the cables themselves aren't actually stretching What's happening is that the ferrules you put on the end of the outer cables, they tend to push themselves into position when we pull hard on the brake cables

So generally, when we fit our brake cables, we put them in and then we give a few sharp tugs on the brake levers themselves just to try and set all of those cables into the ferrules and then the ferrules into the components where necessary And that takes up a little bit of slack and then we readjust the inner cable, pull it through a little bit and then it tightens They don't really stretch because, well, they're pretty tightly bound anyway those bounding cables You mentioned also in there about shift cables too I wouldn't go shifting really hard or anything like that to try to get them to stretch or trying to get any ferrules to sit further onto the actual outer cables or anything

The reason being, the ratchets inside of gear levers are a little bit fragile whereas inside of a brake lever, well, they're quite rudimentary really It's quite a simple bit of care But those gear levers, you want to make sure you don't go overstressing them So just simply go out on the bike, you know and you will have to adjust that barrel adjuster just slightly Just while those ferrules and outer cables just find themselves sitting into those components nicely

(swipe sound affect) All right next up, we've got Rinksdinks who says, "Great work with the show Jon" Thank you "I currently have a Dura Ace R9100 53/39 chain ring setup and sometimes I feel myself spinning out on 53/11 So will a Dura Ace R9100 55T" 55 tooth obviously " outer chain ring fit on my current Dura Ace cranks so I end up with a 55/39 setup?" Yeah, those will work absolutely fine Their gear shifting at the front there may be a little bit slower than your previous one The reason being, obviously you've got a bigger gap to actually contend with But it will work fine I've used a 54/39 before and it's been fine

You've got enough room on the actual front derailleur mount to be able to position a 55 no problem there What you need to consider though really, is are you really actually spinning out in 53/11 Because those chain rings, they're not the cheapest of things and well, 53/11 if you had a cadence of 100 revolutions per minute, well you'd be going an excessive 60 kilometers an hour which I guess is over 40 miles an hour at 45 miles an hour Roughly, something like that So is the extra expense really worth it and how often do you really spin out on it? 'Cause when I think spinning out, I think 140 rpm plus

But yeah it will work absolutely fine but just bear that in mind before you go splashing out on that bigger chain ring (swipe sound affect) Next up, we've got Luis Sordi who says, "Hey Jon I want to change from a 50/34 to a 52/36 chain ring configuration Will I have to put a new chain on or just reset the derailleurs screws and such like" Right, all depends really on how short or how long your current chain is What I would do is go out and buy yourself a new chain anyway because you're going to need it at some point

But first up, fit on that chain set and then see So if the chain is too short, the reason or the way you'll be able to detect this Put it on to the big chain ring and the biggest sprocket in the rear I know we shouldn't be in that gear necessarily And see if that rear derailleur is really extended forward

If it's so tight and you know, it's difficult to change back down onto a smaller chain ring or a smaller sprocket at the rear, then yeah you do need to use a longer chain But generally, well we don't tend to actually break or join our chains that are that short They tend to have a little bit of slack in them So it should be absolutely fine And of course, if it is too short well you can just go ahead and put on that new chain that you've already bought

(swipe sound affect) Next up is Liam Bergin who says, "Hi Jon, I've got a question regarding using a wall mount because I've got limited living space for my bike I've got standard quick release wheels Is it bad long term for them and also for the quick releases themselves? I always do the normal checks before riding Cheers" Right, it's good that you always do those checks before you ride because loads of people out there don't

They just put their bike back, go out on it and then discover a problem somewhere along the line But yeah it's absolutely fine to store your bike up there like that Unless of course you are suspending it from the spokes themselves So make sure that the little hook or whatever fixing it is, isn't actually resting on a spoke Because you could well bend that therefor leading to early fatigue of it or something

And also if your bike was really, really heavy I guess it could play a bit of a part in it but no one I know I think has got a bike that heavy, or have they? Also some people reckon that if they keep bikes stored, you know, vertically on a wall that the hydraulic brake fluid has problems So it like all rises up or sinks down, they get bad performing brakes or anything Brake systems are sealed, so don't really know how that happens I guess it could happen on some systems out there but I think they're very few and far between But ultimately, you are going to be absolutely fine to do that

And I know what it's like to have not enough living room for your bikes (swipe sound affect) Next up is Tristan who says, "Jon, my bike keeps making a weird clicking noise when I'm out of the saddle The noise is definitely coming from the front and seems to be with the rhythm of swinging the bike from side to side" Oh yeah that old chestnut, the old clicking bike Right, firstly, make sure that all of the bolts on the stand and handle bars, brake levers, where they attach on to the bars are all done up to the correct torque and using either anti-seize, grease also sometimes you have to use carbon paste in between the stem and the bars, if you've got carbon bars, something like that, to try and stop them creaking a little bit

Any fraction of movement Something which loads of people get played with is this creaking noise from the front wheel And what it can be is the actual inside of the dropper, so you're looking at the fork, from side on So you're looking at your bike side on, like in the bike vault And there it is, there's the fork dropout, where the axle's going to go

Get yourself my favorite ingredient, you know what it is, by now, the camera man, he knows what it is It's a dab of grease So get yourself a dab or grease, rub it around the inside of that dropout, get it nicely covered, not too much, don't get crazy with it No one likes to go crazy with grease But just put a dab of grease in there, both sides

And refit the front wheel, do up the quick release skewer to a decent torque, have a little play around Dance up those mountains, pretending that you're Chris Froome or whoever you want to be on the ride and see if that clicking or creaking goes away (swipe sound affect) Penultimate question this week comes in from Samuel Petrina who says, "I have an old Nashiki bike with a 10 speed ultegra group set No matter what I do to the B tension screw, I can't get the jockey wheel close enough to the cassette for good shifting" Right, so a B tension screw on a rear derailleur basically controls how close the upper pulley wheel can get to the cassette

Because that allows for more precise shifting, if you like But not all rear derailleurs have them anymore But this one does obviously as you can see here There is one there This one is a mountain bike rear derailleur

I've just borrowed from the GMBN guys, hopefully they don't mind But what reckon your problems here are is you will have inside of that 10 speed old Tegrim rear mech, there's a spring inside of the actual derailleur hanger bolt so that was this one here, this one up there And then, you can see here that there's another bolt which goes in through there It's just up by the upper pulley wheel So what happens is they get absolutely full of gunk over the years and they need to be well essentially dissembled, cleaned up and then the springs have to go in the same positions or you can put them in a different position for a little bit of extra spring power if you like for really snappy gear shifts

I would just put them back where the manufacturers says It's not that simple to go through You do need to pay close attention to the disassembly of it to make sure you pout them back in the right places and also the right way 'round The spring does look quite similar but they're not Some of them have longer tabs than others

But in essence, I would head over actually to the Park Tool website where they've got a really comprehensive guide on how to take apart a rear derailleur for overhaul Maybe I should do that actually in the future So you can actually you know, get to grips with them Because it's a problem out there which loads of people do tend to have with an older rear derailleur And what happens is, they just stay stuck in one place so, the rear derailleur arm, it doesn't really move at all

It just stays like that like cage and it just moves across like so when you change gear rather than really accommodating the slack in the chain So you have a look on that website and you should be absolutely fine to go ahead and give your rear mech an overhaul (swipe sound affect) And the final question comes in from Christopher Santos who says, "Hi Jon, as a beginner cyclist, should I totally slam my stem to the point that there are no places for spacers to be used or should I put one spacer in? Many thanks" Christopher, get on that bike so you are comfortable, my friend As a beginner, you want to be really comfortable because you want to be riding that bike

If you're uncomfortable, you're not going to want to ride it Let's face it So best thing to do, either join a local club, go and see a local bike fitter, someone like that who can get you on that bike ever so comfortable As you become more experienced although it's more difficult, as we get old really, because we're not quite as flexible, you can get into that more aggressive position maybe have your stem slammed but don't go ahead and do it just because you think it looks cool or someone else has told you to do it or you see the pros doing it That doesn't work for everybody out there

So like I say, go along, try and find someone who can help you with your position first and foremost And yeah it does look good, I've got to admit having a slammed stem but you just need to be comfortable A few years back, I had an injury and I actually had to raise my bars two centimeters higher than what they previously were Before, it was always slammed because I've been riding and racing my bike for years and years Went up two centimeters, as my injury went, I could just gradually drop it back down to that lowest position again

But don't go ahead and do it just because you think it looks good or someone's told you to do it (swipe sound affect) There we are, another GCN tech clinic done and dusted But if you've got a problem, leave it for me down there in the comments section below and I'll do my very best to help answer it Alternatively, leave it on all forms of social media, using the #askGCN tag and also remember to like and share this video with your friend Make sure you subscribe to that channel too by clicking the subscribe button and click the notification bell so you get alerted each and every time we put a video live

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