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Super Tidy Handlebars, Noisy Bike Chains & Tyre Seating | GCN Tech Clinic #AskGCNTech


(mechanism clanking) – Welcome to the GCN Tech Clinic, where I try and solve your bike related problems, that you leave down there in the comment section below or alternatively on all forms of social media, using the hashtag #ASKGCNTECH So if you've got something troubling you, let me know Right, with no further ado, let's crack on with the first question this week that comes in from Blaz Meznar who says, " Hi wondering if there is any way to make mechanical cables on the cockpit look as neat as electrical

It just looks so good when the cockpit is so clean" – Right Blaz Couple of things you could do here Firstly, before you go ahead and put your handlebar tape on over the bars, actually root those cables to the both brake and gears, as closely as possible together So like parallel, and tape them on with some insulation tape

Now some people like to wrap it fully on I just like to give a couple of bits, and just hold it firmly in place That's going to give a neat appearance, really, of the cables underneath the actual handlebar tape But, you say about the front, it looks a little bit cluttered, I mean really that's just something you've got to accept, that you've got four cables there You could I guess, heat shrink the cables together as well, and then perform the cuts of the heat shrink at the last possible minute so they try and remain as one big bit, instead of two smaller bits

But ultimately, you're not going to get that super clean look that you really desire, I don't think, unless of course you go to SRAM and eTAP setup, which is wireless, or course Right, now we've got Chris Seilern who says, "Hi John great videos Thanks, I'm a real fan – No problem Chris I have an Ultegra Di2 with 52-36 chainrings and an 11-30 cassette

Unfortunately, it is always slightly noisy in the big ring and normally quiet in the small ring I have tried re-indexing, (myself and at the LBS) oiling , cleaning etc and I've even checked the chain and cassette, and they look okay The front mech does not seem to be touching the chain either Any ideas as to what it might be? Love this question

Chris, I'm about to call you Craig then, but right name So, I've noticed this actually on the latest generations of Ultegra and on also Dura-Ace I've not tried it on the 105 yet And I've also asked some pro mechanics if they've noticed it being ever so slightly noisier than the previous generations And they agreed, or at least the ones I've asked

Where as loads of people out there, don't actually notice a difference, whatsoever But I've got a feeling, it could well be, because on the shadow style derailuer what you've got now, there's an increased amount of spring tension, in the cage of the rear neck, and that, basically, seems to be causing that noise I'm pretty sure that's what it is It just seems to be something with the jockey lug, pulling those jockey wheels, and the chain

I think that's where that noise is coming from, rather than the actual chain set I want people to get involved, actually, in the comments section down below Have they noticed the latest generation of Shimano is slightly, slightly nosier, it's not an annoying noise or anything, it's just a kind of a chain noise Is it noisier than the previous one? Get involved in the comments section down below, because I'm pretty sure that's what it is, just that increased tension of the spring Next up is Vishwa Dev who says, " Every time I take a tire out of the rim to change the inner tube and put it back, I find a slight wobble in the tire when I give it a spin

Is it because I've not put the tire back on properly, or is there a technique in which I can make sure the tire is perfectly inline without the wobble? I guess it's not properly seated into the rim Right, Vishwa There isn't really a technique for this This sort of problem, I guess you could call it, has only been around I can bet the last five years Sense to be, basically, that the tires and the rim interfaces have become more suitable for tubeless tires

I reckon you've probably got a tubeless compatible rim, there, that allows the tires to pop into place So, when you're putting that inner tube in, make sure it's fully inside of the tire and inflate the inner tube inside of that, and make sure that your inner tube itself, is not bulging out between the side wall, and the actual bead of the tire and the inner side wall of the rim What I like to do, is not go ahead and inflate, and just hope it pops into place, but actually try and massage or massage the tire into place, and get that to actually find its way on the rim correctly, rather then allowing you to pump away and I never liked the big popping or clicking noise that the tire makes, but there's no real fail safe technique I guess, you could use something Some people out there use like washing up liquid on the wheel, on the inside of the rim, just to try to help it slide into place, But then you have to wash it off, so that that way of course you can break, your breaks aren't going to work, because you've got soap on them Also you can use talcum powder, that's something which I put inside sometimes, to try to help them slide into place, but give that a go and hopefully, you won't find it so troublesome going forward

Next up we've got Nur Muhhamad Hanif who says, " Hey John, I'm planning on converting my 2x road bike to a 1x The only deraileur with a clutch mechanism Shimano offer for road bikes, is the Ultegra RX I was wondering if the mountain bike rear deraileurs are cross compatible with the road gruppo parts They all have a similar Shadow design, and have a clutch mechanism, but for less than half of the price of the Ultegra RX rd I was wondering if I could get the same function, and maybe the performance from the Deore instead

" – Alright love this one, yep possible to do it Probab;y give it away really Secrets that some people don't want me to give away but yeah , you get yourself a Wolf Tooth Tanpan – Wolf Tooth Components Which goes on to the deraaileur body, so when your cable goes in your anti cable, instead of it going all the way, you put this little roller, it's a wheel there instead, and what that does is it adjusts the amount of cable that your lever is giving, and it means it works with amazing point rear back (smack) Thank me later Next up is, Popula who's says, " Hi GCN, my sora R3000 groupset can shift up the cassette by three gears but only on the small cogs (11-16) on the bigger cogs it will only shift two gears

The third click can be forced by pulling the cable by hand, Tightening the cable just ruins the indexing" – Right, (smack) this ones sounds like it's probably your limit screw So it works down at the higher end of the block, to the 11 to 16 So I reckon you need to turn the H screw in a way Because as your gank through the gears, the cable tension is becoming

It's very, very hard to explain this The (murmur) gank screw is pulled through the cable again and just tighten that up

(sighs) and then it indexes the gears It may well work okay I don't see any problem why it wouldn't What's happened previously, in the previous steps, is just trying to explain this in the easiest way possible, is you are taking up the slack in the cable and eventually to runs out, and you don't have any more room for it It is very very difficult to explain

So go on ahead, play with the H screw, and just adjust the cables, index it What you need to consider here too is actually, It sounds really, really daff because I know right you thinking self, but I want to be able to change those three gears, but how often do you need to do that on your bike? But I'm a real perfectionist when it comes it, is something doesn't work properly, I will faffer and I'll not go to bed, I will waste so much time trying to solve something But you don't really need to ever, be able to change those 3 gears at once But do those steps I've mentioned, and I reckon it will be sorted for you Or alternatively it could well be your mech hanger, slightly out of line, and it means that once that cable , once the deraileur, works its way over, its just got more work to do , but with the same a amount of cable cord

Bikes the are not as easy as everyone thinks Next up we have got Paul@ @tankiematelow Sep 24 who says, "Can I replace my Tiagra Fc=4700 Crankshaft with a 105 FC-R7000 without issues, Trek Checkpoint ALR BB86 5 Thanks" = Yeah no problems at all mate, both of them are Shamano and Hollow Tech 2, go ahead and do it, ikt will work fine Next up is Al who says, " Is it me or are road disc brakes way more tedious to keep running nicely as opposite to mtb discs? Rotor rub , ticking after heavy breaking

Why? Why? – Okay I suppose one of the reasons that, Maybe road bikes, disc brakes give you a hard time , because that basically the reservoir on the levers, on the shifters on a road bike, is a bit smaller then that on a mountain , bike traditionally, and what you are asking it to do is the same operation It's kind of a scaled down version , of what the mountain bike setup is, but I think we need to lay off disc brakes, they are not actually that troublesome whatsoever, I just think as technology and actual mechanics and the Building , off disc brakes on road bike improved as goes on They will be without that problem, Just like mountain bikes disc brakes when they started, they had their problems and they've gone

And road bikes are they really (murmur) problems solved? I can go on-and-on about that But I think give them a bit of an easier time out The Neon Matt now and ultimate one this week TheNeonMatt says" I have some wheels with a worn out braking surface in the garage , Is it safe for me yo use them" – Nice question, not really thought about this before I wouldn't advise it, the reason being, if your brakes are worn out ot means, that the structural integrity of the whole wheel is not going to be as intended, so where the spokes are pulling from the rims , from that area eyelets, they then can be under more stress, then normal leading to a failure of collapse

And absolutely not something I would ever advise What you could do though is just buy yourself a cheap rear end wheel That's what I did many many years ago, just bought myself a really cheap basic , I think it was like e a !0 speed Hubble mat, I just put turbo trainers tires on that and just used those And that was my dedicated turbo wheel, but don't use something that is basically broken already – Right okay

Once and for all, anything 10 speed and up Road or mountain bike, There will be people saying, Yes it dose, I have done it" That's absolutely fine , I'm sure it is, but some of us maybe slightly fussu I don't know I will leave that one with you, but what you can get is Wolf Tooth Tanpan difficult one fpr me to say for some reason Again adjust it the actual cable and get way with

That really is about all I can suggest Yes in the past people have done all sorts trying to root the cable in a different path of the cable clamp and things to try to get it to work

But I've been told those WolfTooth things work pretty well Right, like I said If you've got yourself a tech problem, leave it with me down there in the comment section below And I'll do my best to answer it in and upcoming episode Remember as well to share this video with your friends

Don't forget to check out the GCN shop @shopGlobalcyclingcom For more great videos c;ick just down here Aqnd I'll be back soon with another Tech Clinic

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