Paramotor Tech Talk – Vittorazi Moster Exhaust Swap

– Today, we are going to be replacing a Moster 185 exhaust We just ordered a replacement from the factory

I'm going to run you through all the steps that are needed to actually replace it In today's project, we're going to use a heat gun, a glider line, a tie wrap, an Allen wrench for the prop, an Allen wrench for the thrust, a ratchet, a 10 millimeter socket, extension set, a torque wrench, a wrench, and a wire cutter We ordered a complete kit for the exhaust replacement The kit includes all your gaskets, the base with the springs, the cables, and the copper bushing Also, the one-time-use nuts and a couple lock washers

To begin the disassembly, I'm going to start by removing the clamp for the silencer That will allow you to actually move it around a little bit and reach one of the mounting points Make sure to notice the sequence of how this is mounted, so it can be mounted exactly the same way back With the 10 millimeter socket, now you can reach behind and get the next mounting point I remove the one-time-use nut and washer

Save the washer We have new nuts For the one all the way in the back, we're going to use a wrench My preference is a box wrench with a ratchet on the end, make it a little bit faster You can also use a swivel, or you can also use an extension like so, that flex a little bit or a universal joint

Now we're moving on to this area of the exhaust I'm going to loosen up this next one, but not taking it out At this time, you can take the springs out, and you can either use a glider line or a tie wrap The way you use it: it can go over that, the spring What I like to do is use a wrench, so I can actually pull on the spring and carefully release the tension

If you're using a tie wrap or a zip tie, you can use it the same manner Put the wrench through it– And release the tension Now the other side will be a lot looser Now we can safely remove the last nut, and the whole entire exhaust will come right out At this point in time is a perfect opportunity to actually inspect all of this area of the engine and the motor and the accessories

In this case, I will start by inspecting this bracket I will inspect all your exhaust mounts for any condition If they are cracked, please replace them all And we move to this area right here There is two 10 millimeter nuts

If you have a three-spring exhaust, versus a four-spring exhaust, this is a mandatory part to change If you are doing the 50-hour replacement of the copper ring, you don't have to take this off, necessarily But it's the same procedure The base comes out with all the springs Discard that

And reassemble At this point in time, we are going to strip the silencer out of the old muffler and get it ready for the new one Simply take out the lock washers, or the lock nuts; sorry And the flat nut These are located in three studs around the silencer

Make sure you save your nuts, and I'll show you later on how to reinstall them properly Then remove the silencer Make sure you remember or mark how this is clocked This goes a specific way You don't want this actually blowing back into your gas tank

Okay? You can clean the surface and replace the old gasket with the new one Sometimes, these studs are a little bit stubborn Try to get into the holes If you can't, I recommend to use a very small diameter socket Very carefully, without damaging the threads, move it in the direction that's needed

Align it with the holes and replace it The sequence for these particular nuts: the flat nuts go first, followed by the lock nuts The way you identify the lock nuts, they're actually not completely round Also, the top of the nuts are chamfered a little bit You have a chamfer all the way around

Torque the flat ones first, and reinstall the lock washers Now we're ready to actually install it on the actual engine Before we actually do that, one thing I like to do The engine comes from the factory with the springs already installed, the safety wire and the shrink wrap already installed What I like to do, as you notice here, I remove one spring in each side

That allow me to actually take my wrench and be able to reach that nut and reinstall that particular plate And don't forget to install your exhaust gasket Let's get ready to install it To replace the exhaust, everything will be just like the removal, but in reverse Place the studs on the head

Save the flat washer from before And a brand new, one-time-use copper nut You can just hand tighten those to hold the exhaust in place Now you can actually go to the head This is a brand new lock washer with a brand new, one-time-use copper nut

And do the same You may want to basically put everything half-tight in the beginning That'll allow you to move the exhaust and position it the way you want to Now you can snug down the head nut Make sure it's properly torqued

Now you can proceed to torque the rest of the exhaust mounts There is no specific torque value for those Make sure that your exhaust mount does not spin or get damaged during installation There is a line across, then, from the molding, and you can see if they're twisted or not Our last step is replacing your clamp

They provide you with a brand new gasket for the clamp The final step is replacing those springs Same manner, basically You can use a glider line, or you can use a wire wrap or a tie wrap All four strings are installed

The final step on the spring installation is to use your heat gun Position the shrink wrap right on the center That will protect the safety wires And shrink wrap all four My very last step in the process is basically use a little bit of torque stripe, and then going every nut

Just like that What that allows you to do is to make sure that that particular nut have not move on you You see anything that have chip away or broken, that nut have been loose on you So it's a good visual indicator during you pre-flights Every time you have torque stripe like that, and it's a compromise to actually check the integrity of the part, perhaps

Also the torque on each one of them

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