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Different Tyre Widths On The Front & Rear? | GCN Tech Clinic


(upbeat music) – Welcome back to another episode of the GCN Tech Clinic where I help solve and answer your bike-related technical problems so you can go out riding your bike again, which we all love doin' don't we? So let's crack on with the first question this week and it comes in from Ben Peterson who has recently picked up a pair of HED Jet6+ wheels and really loves them The trouble is Ben is looking to upgrade to a new frame and would like it to be disc brake

Now the wheels however are for rim brakes, is it feasible to buy new hubs and relace the wheels? While I'm at it, might get a power meter rear hub too Right then Ben you can certainly do that, but just bear in mind that disc brake wheels are built generally with a rim that can actually be a little bit lighter because there's no braking surface on it and a braking surface does in fact weight quite a bit because it has to be quite reinforced Now if I were you, if I was in your position Ben you're not gonna like this, because I know you've just bought those wheels I'd actually be tempted to sell them on as virtually new or only used for a few hundred miles, something like that, and actually buy a pair of disc specific rims and wheels Because well you're probably gonna look back and think, "Why didn't I do that?" in a couple of months time, so that's what I would probably do The choice is yours though, how much you wanna spend

Next up we've got a question from David Stewart, now David sounds to me like he's just got the bargain of the century, he's bought a Dawes Lightening from 1981 for the grand price of 35 pounds Now David says he's looking upgrading some of the components including the wheels, the frame dropouts are designed for wheels with the old through on bolt type hubs, so the ones with nuts, like 15 millimeter nuts on end of the axles Will David need to make any adaptations to the frame if he wants to put quick release wheels on? Keep up the great content Right David, like you said, bargain, now unless the frame forks have been designed with massive oversized axles in mind, which is pretty unlikely, you will be able to use quick release wheels on there This sounds like a great project you've got on the go there, so go ahead, do it, once you've finished all those upgrades, make sure you take a picture before and after, submit it for the GCN tech show using the uploader tool down below, screw writing upgrades, buy upgrades, because that is a prime candidate, go on David, fill your boots, I wanna see that Dawes, sounds a classic mate

Next question comes in from greeneking77 who's new to road bikes and road riding and wants to know can they put a 28 millimeter tire on the rear wheel, where they get most of their punctures, and still use a 23 millimeter up front or will the different sizes produce some unwanted effects? Well welcome to the road bike game, now you can certainly do that, in fact I used to do that for a number of years, I use to have quite a bit of comfort on the back in the winter, so 28 like you say and a 23 on the front, never found anything unusual really with the handling, but admittedly it was only for winter riding I used to do that so I was never really pushing it through corners specifically or anything extreme, let's say However, this past winter I actually went up to 25 millimeter on the front and this winter coming I'm gonna go 28 and 28 just for pure extreme comfort Now, I don't reckon you're gonna notice anything different really to be perfectly honest, especially if you're new to road cycling, now because the difference is only five millimeters front and rear, so what's that two and a half millimeters either side, but you might wanna go 25 mil on the front, I think you'll probably find it a little bit more comfortable there too As for if I was racing, I certainly wouldn't vary it by more than two millimeters I think, because then you start to push things a little bit more and you really want the evenness front and rear So yeah, I hope that's been able to help answer your question

Next question is from Gabriel and Grabriel says, you have a problem with the front derailleur, and the problem is when in the lower gears the front derailleur touches the chain so Gabriel has tried to adjust it turning the L screw anti clockwise but it doesn't do anything, turning the screw clockwise does push the derailleur outwards, just can't get it to move in, what is up? Right then Gabriel, best thing to do on this one is to unclamp your front derailleur cable and then put it so that the gearing combination is in the small chainring up front and then the rear you are in the easiest gear so one with the biggest number of teeth on that cassette And then adjust that screw, the L screw, in clockwise enough or anti clockwise, it depends really on the current situation where you are so that the inside of the front derailleur cage is about a millimeter away from the inside of the chain I hope you're still with me, that will be a cadence, that means it's not gonna rub or anything like that, reclamp the cable and then change gear, the front to try to get it go onto the big chainring at that stage you may well need to adjust the H screw too just to get it to pop on to the big chainring or alternatively you might need to just give it a turn a fraction just so that it doesn't go off of that chainring, it all depends on how much you've done playing around with those screws Alternatively we do have a video that tells you how to adjust your front derailleur and that's linked in the description down below Right Robert Markle's next and Robert says he's got 10 speed Shimano Ultegra groupset and needs new shifters, can 11 speed shifters work with a 10 speed groupset? Robert remembers years ago that bike tech bailed him out when he ordered nine speed 11:32 for climbing with a 10 speed groupset

Hmm you were lucky that case Hoping though, Robert is, that they can make the other way around as they have a complete complement of cassettes, 11:21, my favorite, 11:25, and 11:28, Robert would hate to have to sell it off Robert I'm afraid not, the tolerances between 11 and 10 just will not work, it's likely you will get a few gear shifts here and there, but the accuracy of it would totally go out once you start moving up or down through the cassette I'm afraid you're gonna have to bite the bullet and buy new components one way or the other Next up we've got Juul Janssens who says Hello Jon, I have a question about WD40 (laughs), I think this one's for Simon Richardson really 'cause he absolutely loves the stuff, I want to know if I can put WD40 in a free hub, I have Mavic Ksyrium Elite S wheels from 2015, thanks

Right then Juul, I'm unsure what exactly you're wanting to do with the free hub, but if you're wanting to put it in to kind of replace the grease that the free hub body generally needs on the inside where it mounts onto the axle assembly I wouldn't use the normal WD40 for it because the consistency of it is a little bit thin to be perfectly honest with you, instead you could use some of the spray grease in a can that WD40 make, because you have mentioned WD40 specifically, alternatively use just some very thin grease, so get yourself enough, like a pea shape, or a pea size sorry, enough and just rub that around on the inside of the free hub body before reassembling it What's important here is you don't use too much because if you use too much you could actually gunk up the poles and the springs which won't allow you to have the freewheel mechanism working or in fact allow you to engage into the hub shell itself so just go easy with it, don't overload it with grease GNX157 wants to know, they've got a 10 speed Dura-Ace 7900 bike, I absolutely love that groupset, and they're wondering if they can swap in a Dura-Ace 9000 rear derailleur and keep all the rest the same Now GNX157 says the indexing is in the shifter so should I be okay? I'm afraid not, the design of the 9000 rear mech is done in such way that a lateral movement won't work with the amount of cable being pulled from a 7900 shifter which is bad news in your case Basically 11 speed components are made with such tight tolerances for the coil spacing so that they only will in fact work correctly, or properly in my opinion, with other 11 speed components

So I'm afraid, yeah, if you want a 9000 rear mech you're gonna need 11 speed shifters too And the final question this week comes in from Luke Thiel who says, Hi Jon, I'd like to convert a nine speed set up to an 11 speed so I don't have to change the 11 speed cassette on the turbo to swap bikes Will replacing the shifters, front and rear derailleurs, and the chain with 11 speed components work without replacing the nine speed crankset? Or do I need to replace the entire groupset? Hi Luke, that is correct, it will work, a nine speed chain set will work fine, although I don't recommend it, I've used it and it does work okay, the only thing you need to consider here is the wheel or free hub that you are gonna be fitting a cassette on to going forward because Mavic and Campagnolo, their free hubs allow nine, 10, and 11 speed cassettes to fit on there absolutely fine whereas Shimano, if you've got a nine speed Shimano free hub you can't put an 11 speed cassette on there it just doesn't work I'm afraid unless you hack away at the back of the free hub body which I wouldn't recommend So probably the most cost effective way would be to buy a hub and have a wheel rebuilt and then you've got to factor in the labor, the spokes, as well as the hub itself So probably I'd just try to get a separate rear wheel would probably be more cost effective quite likely by the time you find a decent wheel builder that you can totally trust in

I hope that that's helped solve it, but yeah I do like these compatibility questions Anyway, that is it for this week's GCN Tech Clinic, I do hope that I've been a help answer your technical related bike problem question or query, if not make sure you leave it down there in the comment section so I can get to it and get you rolling as soon as possible on your bike Also, remember to like and share this video with your friend and don't forget to to check out the GCN shop at shopglobalcyclingnetworkcom we've got so much for you to spend your pocket money or your hard earned cash on indeed

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